What does a perfume need to captivate you?
The top perfumes of 2024 have been defined by fragrances with strong character. We've gone wild for extracts and elixir versions that let us enjoy our favourite scents for hours.
We've also discovered the magic of the new alcohol-free perfumes, surprisingly long-lasting, and we've fallen in love again with chypre essences.
Sweet notes have been very present in irresistible olfactory compositions, turning them into delightful pastry bites.
We've bathed in milk with comforting lactonic notes and uncovered new facets of salty notes.
We've succumbed to the powerful oud, which has transitioned from being an exclusive note in Middle Eastern fragrances to starring in global launches.
Which trend is your favourite? Search and find in our selection the perfume that captivated you in 2024.
Intense perfumes
Rabanne's iconic gold bar, 1 Million, has once again taken center stage with a more intense and sensual version. Million Gold Eau de Parfum Intense aligns with the new masculinity codes of Generation Z, who champion wild individuality.
"Million Gold is more than a fragrance; it's a bold statement that rewrites the vision of modern masculinity by including and combining flowers for a touch of extravagance," explain perfumers Christophe Raynaud and Quentin Bisch.
Another example of this intense twist is Chloé L'Eau de Parfum Intense, which blends sophisticated rose with soft woods. The result is a sensual, lush, and powerful essence that maintains the brand's olfactory signature.
Elixir versions
Lancôme has opened a new chapter of its bestseller fragrance, La Vie est Belle. La Vie est Belle L'Elixir is a floral woody gourmand scent built around the contrast between violet leaf absolute and delicious cocoa butter absolute.
"Behind this fragrance lies a desire for sweetness, to reinvent the sensuality of the skin through the addiction of a woody violet immersed in an irresistible raspberry liqueur and sprinkled with dark chocolate," explains perfumer Antoine Maisondieu.
Meanwhile, Carolina Herrera's Bad Boy has also captivated us with its invigorating freshness in elixir form. Bad Boy Cobalt Elixir combines sage, white truffle, and resinous wood – potent ingredients that recreate the sensation of lightning energy leaving behind a trace of spicy smoke.
Passion for extracts
Coinciding with its 40th anniversary, Amouage has presented Exceptional Extraits, featuring Dia 40 Woman and Jubilation 40 Man. These two new essences aim to push ingredients to their limits, giving them time to reveal their most hidden facets. To make them as rich and complex as possible, both fragrances undergo weeks of aging, achieving a 40% oil concentration.
"It was obvious to me that, as it was Amouage's anniversary, both Dia and Jubilation had to be dosed at 40% – a challenge that only the most talented perfumers in the industry could overcome," explains Renaud Salmon, the brand's creative director.
Extracts have also been featured in notable launches like Louis Vuitton's collection, orchestrated by Jacques Cavallier Belletrud and Frank Gehry; Essential Parfums' Bois Impérial Extrait; Une Nuit Nomade's Jardins de Misfah Extrait; and Rouge Smoking Extrait by BDK Parfums. (see our November news article).
"Our Exceptional Extraits are dosed at an extremely high percentage to make them as rich and complex as possible," explains Renaud Salmon, Creative Director of Amouage.
Alcohol-free perfumes
From innovative proposals to revisited classics, the alcohol-free trend allows us to enjoy perfumes while minimising irritation risks – perfect for sensitive skin or for those wanting new fragrance experiences.
Supermodel Bella Hadid's foray into perfumery has resulted in Orebella, a line of alcohol-free fragrances with a high concentration of essential oils and moisturising benefits.
In the traditional realm, Francis Kurkdjian has reinterpreted Dior's masculine classic in Dior Sauvage Eau Forte. The perfumer retains the temperament of the original perfume in a new alcohol-free, water-based high-concentration formula. Its trail is described as a "a tenacious, dizzying expression of vivid freshness," explains Kurkdjian.
Even niche perfumery giant Xerjoff, has explored alcohol-free compositions with Newcleus. The essence uses encapsulated aromatic oil in alginate pearls, allowing controlled diffusion while being skin-friendly.
The reinvention of Chypre
The chypre olfactory family has won us over again this year with a renewed vision of its classic notes (citrus, flowers, woods, and oakmoss). The greatest exponent of this emerging trend is Bárenia, by Hermès – an elegant fragrance that reveals its true character upon contact with the skin.
Other examples of this movement include La Panthère Elixir by Cartier, featuring a warm feline musk combined with velvety jasmine. As the name suggests, it's also an elixir version that reimagines the traditional chypre structure.
Lactonic notes
Soft, warm, comforting, and gustative, the milk note has stood out in some of this year's launches. For instance, Sonia Constant reinterpreted the iconic L'Air du Temps with coconut milk.
We also find the milk note in the appetizing Blue Madeleine by Ateliers des Ors, a tribute to early olfactory memories connected with sweet cakes and bowls of milk.
Two of the most disruptive brands today, Fugazzi and Borntostandout, collaborated on an eau de parfum bursting with milky waves. Creamy, smoky, and enveloping, this olfactory creation takes the #milky trend to its ultimate expression.
Sweet addictions
The gourmand trend continues to delight us with scents that evoke instant satisfaction – from vanilla and cocoa accords to recognisable treats like cupcakes and refined almond marzipan. These notes appear in Afternoon Delight by Margiela, Story of Your Life by Etat Libre d'Orange, and Almond Suede by Arquiste.
We can't overlook the new olfactory twist of Devotion Intense by Dolce & Gabbana, which replaces candied citrus with hazelnut in a luminous, warm, and sensual essence.
Mineral salt note
Thirty years after L'Eau d'Issey pour Homme, Issey Miyake has revolutionised men's perfumery again by making salt the protagonist. Here, the saline note moves away from its usual marine context to highlight its mineral facets. Perfumer Quentin Bisch connects the sea, earth, and skin with his interpretation.
In Divine Parfum by Jean Paul Gaultier, Bisch reinterprets the salty note differently. "Divine is the perfume of radiant skin wrapped in flowers and salt," he explains. The three main accords are salt, lily flower, and meringue.
The power of oud
A staple in Middle Eastern perfumery, oud is a woody note with smoky, resinous intensity. Its growing popularity, fueled by brands from the region and major Western launches, has made it a global trend.
An example of is Oud Wood Parfum by Tom Ford, where oud combines with sandalwood and vetiver.
"My love for oud became a passion when I moved to the Middle East over 20 years ago, where I embraced the ritual of layering it as an act of self-expression and self-love," explains Mona Kattan, founder of Kayali Fragrances. In Oudgasm Smoky Oud | 07, the brand evokes the aromas of bakhoor, scented wood chips producing a warm, enigmatic, and opulent fragrance.
Carolina Herrera