Highly concentrated perfumes: the new intense version of your favourite fragrances

Concentrated fragrances are no longer a rarity; they've become a trend. Extracts and elixirs have evolved into coveted perfumes. Is it because this depth allows you to enjoy an olfactory story for longer?

But what makes these perfumes so special? Is it just about intensity, or is there more behind it? Does higher concentration mean a better perfume?

In perfumery, the term extract (or extrait de parfum) refers to fragrances with a high concentration of essential oils. In theory, an extract contains between 20% and 40% of these oils (eau de parfum usually has 15% to 20%), resulting in an intense, deep and long-lasting formula.

However, there is no official regulation or standard that clearly defines what qualifies as an extract. This means each brand can use the term somewhat freely, and two products labeled as extrait may offer very different performance in terms of longevity, projection or intensity.

In practice, a brand may label a perfume as an extract simply to emphasise its lasting power.

This lack of standardisation has long been a point of contention among perfumers. As Ramón Monegal points out, perfume could benefit from a designation system similar to that used in the wine industry. Today, he says, terminology is often dictated "by the marketing department to position the perfume."

Beyond the percentage of oils, an extract usually has a denser and less alcoholic composition, reducing volatility and slowing its evolution on the skin. It also requires a different application–less is more.

But it's not just about percentages. An extract is not merely a stronger version of a fragrance. It's often reformulated to suit the new composition, with adjusted notes for balance, and typically requires a longer aging process. As such, a fragrance in both eau de parfum and extrait forms may tell completely different olfactory stories.

According to Marco Parsiegla, CEO of Amouage, the aging process for an extract is similar to that of a wine or a whisky, requiring 8 and 16 weeks of maceration. While working with perfumer Pierre Negrin on Interlude 53, Amouage realised the scent became rounder with a longer maceration process–highlighting the expertise required for creating extracts.

Not necessarily. The key isn't in having the highest percentage, but in finding a balance that respects the formula and enhances the olfactory experience. A higher concentration doesn't always guarantee better projection or performance. In fact, with less ethanol in the blend, diffusion can be reduced, and the perfumer's work becomes even more complex.

As Amouage explains, the real challenge is balancing longevity and diffusion, and even the fragrance spraying experience must be adapted: "The higher the concentration, the more challenging the spraying experience.

For its Exceptional Extraits, Amouage uses a completely different nozzle and spray mechanism to ensure optimal performance, since fine-mist pumps are more likely to clog.

"The first thing to consider is the olfactory family and ingredients," says Marta Tamayo, Director of Communications and Marketing at Le Secret du Marais, a boutique perfumery. You can't expect a citrus perfume to last all day.

If our goal is longevity, we should opt for intense ingredients that evaporate more slowly–woods, spices, florals, leathers, and musks.

Skin type should also be taken into account. "Every perfume behaves differently, and a fragrance isn't truly complete until it's applied to your skin," explains Tamayo. In general, dry skin retains fragrance less than oily skin. To prolong the scent, apply a moisturiser beforehand.

One thing to keep in mind–due to their high concentration, extracts can leave marks on clothing. It's best to spray from a slight distance.

Beyond their lasting power or intensity, what makes a perfume extract special is its ability to evoke a more intimate olfactory story. Concentration transforms not only longevity but the character of the fragrance: accords evolve differently, raw materials feel richer, and the scent becomes like a second skin.

"The same formula at double the concentration won't be interesting or different from an olfactory point of view. Different modifications and restructuring are required, as well as experimentation with aging times to deliver a completely new aromatic profile," reveals Amouage.

Is there a master formula for creating extracts? "There is no recipe for making a highly concentrated perfume; it's about craftsmanship and experience. Some fragrances perform better at lower doses, proving that creating quality fragrances isn't about rigid formulas. That's the beauty of our industry," the brand explains, after years of experience working with extracts.